Sol Y Lago Restaurant & Bar
Posted on May 14, 2008
Sol Y Lago is a Tahoe City restaurant from San Francisco’s Johnny Alamilla, formerly of Alma in the Mission, and Brian Reccow, who hails from Thirsty Bear. They moved up here, partially to get more snowboarding in, and took over the former Hacienda, offering what Alamilla has coined “Sierra Latino Cuisine.”
Sol y Lago is Lake Tahoe’s Sierra Latino Restaurant. The menu features an array of downright affordable (and tasty) tapas, both hot and cold.
I was definitely fired up on the presentation of the quinoa gratin ($7), a hearty dish with roasted tomatoes and cream, and melted queso cotija on top—it arrives sizzling hot. However, I found the accompanying crostini somewhat superfluous—all you need with that dish is a fork.
Toothsome empanadas ($8) had a mash of bright green peas inside, with a flavorful carrot and cayenne pool of sauce on the plate. Speaking of the plate, it arrived hot, which was nice for the empanadas, but didn’t do any service to the (rather undressed) mixed greens on there as well. A favorite, the perfectly-cooked coconut-glazed prawns ($11), came on a bed of Bloomsdale spinach and really had some zing—meanwhile, the wild striped bass ceviche ($9) was flat and under-seasoned—it needed some kick that the mild green chilies weren’t generating (stingy, those chilies).
Achiote chicken skewers ($7) were juicy and tender, although one was doused with the honey and coriander mustard sauce, while the other exhibited a lighter hand.
Mains are also affordable (even a rib eye is only $22), but unfortunately weren’t quite as faboo as the commendable parade of tapas. The roasted free-range chicken ($18) generously comes with two legs (two thighs and drumsticks). The crackly crust was delicious and the chicken was juicy, but overall the seasoning just wasn’t really there. It needed to be fully dialed; I’m not asking for ELEVEN, even eight would be great.
Chicky chick comes with baby onions and scrumptious cornmeal dumplings with a hint of Parmesan that lounge around in the fennel-scented broth. Pan-seared halibut ($19) arrived a touch overdone, dang, which was a shame because the tricolore of sweet corn, roasted tomato coulis, and pumpkin seed pesto all offered a savory and bright counterpoint. This dish was close to rocking. Very close.
Desserts really nailed it—it was impossible to avoid finishing the house-made tres leches cake ($6), and everyone should at least try the chocolate and jalapeño gelato ($4), a special recipe made in conjunction with Ciao Bella for the restaurant (Sol y Lago is the only place where you could taste it). There’s also a sundae ($6) topped with a cornmeal-cayenne crunch that should be packaged and sold separately, it’s that good.
If you’re craving a lake view, Sol y Lago has it, but once the sun goes down, the alcove area offering the view is a bit nondescript and plain. The main dining area is more stylish, with a long bar that can fill up with cocktail seekers (mojito, anyone?) and those craving a quick bite. Music was spot-on.
Service was kind, but the kitchen definitely had some timing issues, with long gaps between various courses, and then suddenly a couple dishes would arrive at once. Just kick back and enjoy a glass of South American wine, like one of the affordable Malbecs, including a 2005 rosé from Terza Volta ($5.50) that held up well to some of the tapas. Overall, Sol y Lago offers some flavorful cuisine that isn’t common, and at a price that can’t be beat. And whaddya know, there’s that gorg view. Written by: Marcia Gagliardi
Sol y Lago
Boatworks Mall
760 N. Lake Blvd.
Tahoe City, CA 96145
530-583-0358
» Filed Under Restaurants Tags: Tags:Lake Tahoe restaurant, Sol Y Lago
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